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What materials are used in a stoneware dinnerware set?

If you’ve ever stared at a cozy, slightly matte dinner plate at a weekend dinner party, wondering why it holds up so well to microwaves, regular dishwashing, and even a little accidental scrapes from a fork, there’s a good chance it’s stoneware. As someone who’s been working as a stoneware dinnerware set supplier for over 8 years, I get so many questions from buyers and even random customers at trade shows: what the heck is stoneware actually made of? It’s not just “clay” like the stuff you used for weird mugs in high school art class, right? Let me break this down the way I actually explain it to new clients – no fancy, stuffy science jargon, just real, behind-the-scenes stuff we actually use to make the sets we ship out week after week. Stoneware Dinnerware Set

First off, the base of every stoneware set is a mix of clays, but not just any clays. We’re talking about two main types here, mostly: kaolin and ball clay. Wait, I know, those sound like made-up words, but trust me, they’re super different. Kaolin is that fine, white clay you might have heard of – it’s the stuff that makes porcelain smooth, but we don’t use pure kaolin for stoneware because it gets too brittle. If we only used kaolin, a plate would crack if you set a hot pasta pot on it, which is a nightmare for everyday dinnerware. Then there’s ball clay – that’s the sticky, dark gray (or sometimes tan) clay that we dig up from certain parts of the country, mostly from places like Kentucky, Tennessee, and parts of Georgia. Ball clay is great because it’s super plastic, meaning it holds its shape when we throw it on a wheel or press it into those cool, casual shapes people love now, not just the plain round plates. We usually mix kaolin and ball clay in a ratio of around 60% ball clay to 40% kaolin, but sometimes we tweak it a little depending on if we’re making a wide, shallow salad plate or a deep soup bowl. If we’re making bowls that need to hold thick chili or soup, we might add a tiny bit more ball clay so the sides don’t cave in when they’re fired.

Wait, there’s another clay that sometimes sneaks in, and that’s fire clay. We don’t use tons of it, but maybe 5-10% of the mix, mostly to add extra heat resistance. Because stoneware goes through a way hotter firing process than, say, earthenware (the cheap, chippy stuff you get at dollar stores). Earthenware is fired at around 1,800 to 2,200 degrees Fahrenheit, but stoneware? We fire it at 2,200 to 2,400 degrees – that’s basically molten-hot. The fire clay helps the clay mix handle that high heat without warping or turning to mush. I’ve had a few batches mess up when we didn’t add enough fire clay once, and it was a total disaster – 500 sets all warped like potato chips and had to be scrapped. Lesson learned: fire clay is non-negotiable for us.

Once the clay mix is combined, we add other stuff to make it stronger and less porous. That’s where feldspar comes in. Feldspar is a mineral, kind of like quartz, that melts at high temperatures and acts as a binder. When we fire the stoneware, the feldspar melts a little and fills in all the tiny little gaps between the clay particles, which makes the finished piece non-porous. That’s why your ceramic plate doesn’t soak up pasta sauce or coffee stains – earthenware is porous, so it stains, but stoneware? With the feldspar, it’s basically watertight (well, for liquids, not actual water leaks). We usually add around 10-15% feldspar to the clay mix, but again, we tweak it depending on the look we want. If we’re doing a matte finish, we might add a tiny bit less feldspar, so the surface is a little more textured instead of super smooth.

Another common additive is silica, which is just sand, basically. Wait, not the play-sand you get at the store – it’s refined silica, so no dirt or debris. We add around 5-8% silica to the mix to add hardness. Silica makes the stoneware less likely to scratch, which is a huge selling point. No one wants a dinner set that gets a bunch of fork scratches after a month of use. We once did a custom order for a restaurant that serves a lot of steaks, so we added a little extra silica to make it more scratch-resistant. That set still looks almost the same as day one, which the restaurant owner was stoked about.

Okay, so that’s the clay body – the stuff that makes up the actual plate, bowl, or mug. But then there’s the glaze, which is what makes it look pretty, shiny, or matte, and it’s super important for function too. A lot of people think glaze is just paint, but it’s actually a glassy coating that’s fused to the stoneware during the second firing. Glaze is made of similar stuff to the clay body, but with extra minerals to get the color and finish we want. Let’s break down the common types of glaze we use.

First, transparent glazes – we use these a lot because they let the natural color of the stoneware body show through. If our clay is a light tan, the transparent glaze makes it that soft, warm beige that’s so popular right now for casual, farmhouse-style sets. Transparent glazes are mostly feldspar, silica, and a little bit of flux (another mineral that helps the glaze melt evenly). We might add a tiny bit of iron oxide to get a subtle warm tint, not too strong, just enough to make it look like it has depth, not just plain white.

Then there are opaque glazes, which we use for bolder colors – navy, sage green, charcoal gray, even those soft pastels that are trending. Opaque glazes have something called an opacifier, usually tin oxide or zirconium silicate, which makes the glaze not see-through. No one wants a navy plate that looks like a light blue sliver so you can see the pasta underneath, right? We tested zirconium silicate a few years ago because it’s cheaper than tin oxide, and it works just as well – saves us a little money, which we pass on to our clients without cutting corners on quality.

Wait, and then there’s matte glaze. Matte is huge right now, way more popular than super shiny glaze for a lot of people. Matte glaze isn’t just a shiny glaze with some powder added – it’s made by adjusting the amount of flux and silica so it doesn’t melt completely smooth. It has a soft, velvety feel, not slippery like shiny glaze. We have to be careful with matte glaze, though, because it’s a little more prone to scratching than shiny glaze. So when we use matte, we always make sure the stoneware body has extra silica to balance it out. I once messed up a matte order for a boutique hotel – didn’t add enough silica, and a few sets got scratches when the housekeeping staff stacked them. Oops, learned to double-check the silica levels every time now.

Also, don’t forget about the glaze for the bottom of the pieces! Wait, we don’t glaze the bottom of plates and bowls, right? Because if we did, they’d slide around on the table, and also, when we fire them, they might stick to the kiln shelves. So we leave the bottom unglazed, and sometimes we sand it a little to make it smooth so it doesn’t scratch your table. A lot of buyers ask about that – they think it’s a defect, but it’s actually intentional.

Now, the firing process plays a huge role too, and that’s part of what makes stoneware different from other dinnerware. We fire the stoneware in two stages, mostly. First, the bisque firing – that’s when we fire the raw clay pieces at around 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit to harden them a little, so they don’t fall apart when we apply the glaze. Then we apply the glaze, and fire them again at the high stoneware temp, 2,200 to 2,400 degrees. That second firing is what fuses the glaze to the stoneware body, making it strong, non-porous, and food-safe. I always tell our clients that the firing temp is the secret – earthenware is fired too low, so it’s porous, chips easy, not microwave safe. Porcelain is fired even hotter, but it’s super brittle, so it cracks if you drop it. Stoneware hits that perfect middle ground – strong, durable, works for everyday use.

Wait, also, are there any other materials we use? For decorations, like if we have little patterns or hand-painted designs, we use ceramic underglazes. Underglazes are pigments mixed with clay and glass, and we apply them before the second glaze firing, so they’re part of the piece, not just on top. That means the patterns won’t wear off even after years in the dishwasher. A lot of people get hand-painted sets and worry the design will chip after a few months, but with underglazes, that’s not a problem. We make sure all our underglazes are food-safe, too – no lead or harmful chemicals, which is super important for us, especially since a lot of our clients sell to families with kids.

I should also mention what we don’t use. A lot of cheap stoneware imports cut corners by using fillers that aren’t natural, or using low-grade clay that’s full of impurities. We never do that. We source our clays from reputable suppliers that test for contaminants, and our glazes are all FDA-approved for food contact. That’s a big deal for us – we’ve built our reputation on making sets that last, not just cheap stuff that falls apart after a few months.

Now, I know a lot of small business owners and restaurant managers reading this might be thinking, “Okay, that makes sense, but why does the material matter for me?” Well, if you’re a café, you need dinnerware that can handle being stacked thousands of times, washed in a commercial dishwasher at high temps, and not chip after a month. Stoneware’s material makes that possible. If you’re a family buying sets for your dining table, you want something that can go in the microwave, oven (wait, some stoneware is oven-safe, right? We add a little extra fire clay to the body to make it heat-resistant, so our sets can go from the oven straight to the table, which is perfect for holiday meals).

I’ve had clients tell me they switched to our stoneware sets because the cheaper sets they were using would stain after a few weeks, or crack when they put a hot pan on them. That’s all because of the materials – using the right clays, adding the right additives, firing at the right temp. It’s not rocket science, but it’s not just slapping clay in a mold either. There’s a reason we’ve been in this for 8 years, and we still get orders coming in from repeat clients.

If you’re looking for a stoneware dinnerware set for your home, or a bulk order for your business, I hope this helped you understand what goes into making a quality set. We work with all kinds of clients, from small online boutiques to big restaurant chains, and we customize orders all the time – different colors, shapes, sizes, even custom patterns if you want. If you’re curious about our sets, or want to talk about bulk pricing, just reach out to our team. We’re always happy to answer questions, no pressure at all.

Winter Dinnerware Set (References:

  1. American Ceramic Society. "Stoneware Composition and Firing Temperature Standards." 2021.
  2. The Pottery Industry Association. "Common Additives in Dinnerware Clay Bodies." 2022.
  3. FDA. "Food-Safe Ceramic Glaze Requirements for Tableware." 2020.)

Wellwares (Shijiazhuang) Limited
Wellwares (Shijiazhuang) Limited is one of the most professional stoneware dinnerware set manufacturers and suppliers in China, featured by quality products and good service. Please rest assured to wholesale customized stoneware dinnerware set at low price from our factory.
Address: 12F, Huahai Universal Plaza, No. 199 Xinhua Road, Shijiazhuang.
E-mail: chloecui@wellwares.com
WebSite: https://www.wws-ceramic.com/